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El Restaurante Mexicano
Sept-Oct
El Restaurante Mexicano
Sept.-Oct. 2003

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Días de los Muertos
Introduce customers to Days of the Dead
©2003 Maiden Name Press LLC

Customers hardly expect to see an altar commemorating the dead when they visit a favorite restaurant. But that's what greeted diners last fall at El Meson Taqueria in Austin, Texas, when owners Marisela Godinez and her husband, Yves Macias, created a special celebration for Days of the Dead.

"We have a table set up by the counter so all the customers can see it," Macias reports. "We decorate it with sugar skulls, hanging skulls and a lot of fruit. Customers really like it. About 90 percent of our customers are non-Hispanics, so it's really something different for them."

Días de los Muertos, which traditionally begins at the stroke of midnight Oct. 31 and is observed Nov. 1 and 2, is beginning to rival Halloween as an autumn holiday for Hispanics and non-Hispanics alike. Because it is rooted in ancient Aztec ritual, it is the perfect time for Mexican restaurants to offer specials and teach customers about Mexican culture – especially since food plays such a central role in Days of the Dead events.

Last year, for example, El Meson Taqueria featured specials inspired by some of artist Frida Kahlo's recipes, which are showcased in the cookbook "Frida's Fiestas" (Clarkson Potter, 1994) – Calabaza en Dulce (sweet pumpkin), Capirotada (Mexican bread pudding), Champurrado (chocolate-flavored atole) and Mole de Olla (beef stew with corn, green beans and squash in red chile broth), among them.

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Altar The history

In pre-Hispanic times, members of the indigenous Purepecha, Nahua, Totonac and Otomi tribes believed souls of the dead return once a year to see living relatives. Originally celebrated during the Aztec month of Miccailhuitontli (which in the Gregorian calendar fell at the end of July or beginning of August), Días de los Muertos now coincides with All Hallows' Eve – a move made when Spanish priests decided it should be a Christian celebration, a story by Ricardo J. Salvador on the Iowa State University website (www.public.iastate.edu) says.

Today, Días de los Muertos rituals resemble those practiced centuries ago. To honor visiting souls, homes and graveyards are decorated with candlelit ofrendas (altars); cempazuchitl (marigold-like flowers); the deceased's favorite food and drink; and sugar candies and Pan de Muerto (a special, sweet bread) shaped like skulls, skeletons, caskets and other death images. Some of the tributes include photos of the dead.

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Muertos

El Restaurante Mexicano offers some ideas Mexican restaurants can use to incorporate those traditions into customer-enticing Days of the Dead promotions:

Host a sugar skull-making workshop for children and adults. Customers could sign up for a skull-making dinner where they could make skulls and then eat while the skulls are drying. They could also enroll in a skull-making class, then pick up the skulls at a later date.

You could also provide pre-made sugar skulls for customers to paint during a class, or as part of a special Días de los Muertos dinner. Or you could offer a skull-making class at grocery stores, schools, or at an adult continuing education class, then give your students a coupon to use later at your restaurant.

Set up an altar at the entrance to your eatery. Ask employees and customers to bring in pictures of deceased loved ones to decorate the altar. Offer a special price on a signature Days of the Dead margarita to any customer who contributes to the altar.

Promote a menu featuring Calabaza Dulce, Pan de Muerto and other traditional Days of the Dead dishes.

Hand out marigolds to customers who visit during Días de los Muertos.

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©2008 Maiden Name Press LLC