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Photo ©2002 by Susie Cushner; from Viva la Vida, text ©2002 by Rafael Palomino and Arlen Gargagliano. Published by Chronicle Books, San Francisco, Calif. Reprinted with permission.
Latin Unleashed!
Mexico and its 'cousins' offer melting pot of menu potential


©2003 Maiden Name Press LLC

Anthony Lamas learned to experiment with Latin flavors during his childhood in southern California.Latin Unleashed!

"My mom is Mexican and my father is from Puerto Rico, so I was exposed to many different foods when I was young," recalls the chef/owner of Jicama, a three-year-old restaurant that has become a highlight on the Louisville, Ky. dining scene. "At Jicama, we serve Mexican, Cuban, South American – we're really a mix [of the cuisines], and people in Louisville are excited about the new flavors!"

Lamas, and other chefs nationwide, are discovering that diners are ready for dishes made with ingredients not only from Mexico (the country whose cuisine has taken America by storm), but also from the 25 other nations (not including the Caribbean, which also belongs to the Latino culinary tradition) that comprise Latin America.

This melting pot of flavors – which presents restaurateurs with great menu potential – includes Mexico, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, Panama, Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Brazil, Guianas (which includes Suriname, French Guiana, Guyana), Cuba, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Jamaica and Haiti, author Elisabeth Luard writes in "The Latin American Kitchen" (Laurel Glen Publishing, 2002).

"Mexican restaurants are starting to borrow from Latin, or Nuevo Latino, foods," says Rafael Palomino, chef/owner of New York City's Sonora and the new Pacifico and author of cookbooks including "Viva la Vida: Festive Recipes for Entertaining Latin-Style" (Chronicle Books, 2002). "Food from Mexico is incredible – you think of the chiles, moles, and tequilas, which are very earthy kinds of foods. Nuevo Latino, which I call Bistro Latino because I give it a French influence, is lighter. It uses more root vegetables like yuca and malanga, and a lot of stocks."

Different climates = different cuisine

The nuances of each nation's cuisine are a matter of geography and climate. Tomatoes, for example, were cultivated in modern form by the Aztecs of Mexico, which is also home of the avocado. Corn is grown throughout Central America (including Mexico) and in Colombia, Chile, Peru and Ecuador and is a staple ingredient in the cuisine of those countries. Cassava root is a staple in the Caribbean and Amazonia, while the potato "achieves the status of staple only in the Peruvian highlands," according to Luard.

The way food is prepared and served also distinguishes each country's fare. In Mexico and Central America, tortillas are used to scoop salsas, bean purees, meat and vegetables that are chopped small and don't require cutting. In Argentina, southern Chile, Uruguay, Paraguay and southern Brazil, meat on-the-bone and roasted over an open fire is a popular meal option, Luard notes.

Menu magic

The increasing availability of Latin ingredients and diners' eagerness to try them open a world of opportunity for restaurateurs willing to have fun with new flavors. But that doesn't mean discarding favorites, or changing your menu's focus. You can simply add a special of the week, or "borrow" ingredients (serve malanga chips in addition to tortilla chips, mashed plantains and Peruvian potatoes as side dish alternatives to rice), from your choice of Latin countries to create menu magic for your customers.

Same ingredient,
different uses

Some countries have the same ingredient, but call it different names and use it in different ways. The avocado is a good example. In Mexico, people use the acuacate in guacamole. The same fruit (yes, it's technically a fruit, not a vegetable) is called palta in Chile, where it is blended into Crema de Palta (an iced avocado soup). And in Brazil, it's an abacate and is treated as a dessert ingredient in dishes like Dolce de Abacate (avocado whip with rum).

Source: "The Latin American Kitchen" by Elisabeth Luard (Laurel Glen Publishing, 2002)

That's Lamas' approach at Jicama, where customers rave about his version of the Brazilian black bean and sausage dish called feijoda. "The traditional way is to use tongue, hooves, the scraps of the steer. I use smoked sausage, chorizo and add cumin, achiote and ground ancho and serve it with my mom's fresh pico de gallo," Lamas says.

His Mexican-style ceviche is spiced with the Peruvian chile aji amarillo. And playing to the southern tastes of his Kentucky clientele, Lamas offers Latin shrimp and grits. "I rub the shrimp in cilantro and garlic and achiote, and fold chipotles, smoked cheddar and corn into the grits which I deep fry," he notes.

The menu at Palomino's Sonora, too, melds the foods of many Latin countries. There are Empanadas de Res, sirloin empanadas with avocado aji, from his native Colombia; Mexican Guacamole made with avocados, tomatoes, onions and cilantro; and the Steak a la Parilla, an Argentinian entree served with Cuban sweet plantain and black bean rice with roasted garlic and saffron aioli.

Other favorites include the Yuca Fries served with guacamole, Salsa Roja or Salsa a la Huancaina (a Peruvian sauce made with Mexican queso blanco and aji mirasol or aji amarillo) and the Malanga Chips served at the bar, with ceviche, or as a coating on dishes like Sea Scallops with Malanga Crust.

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©2008 Maiden Name Press LLC