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El Restaurante Mexicano

A Hispanic cheese primer


©2005 Maiden Name Press LLC

Hispanic-style cheeses fall into two general categories: fresh and aged. The California Milk Advisory Board offers this guide to help y ou navigate your way through the sometimes confusing maze of Hispanic quesos.

Hispanic-style cheeses fall into two general categories: fresh and aged. The California Milk Advisory Board offers this guide to help y ou navigate your way through the sometimes confusing maze of Hispanic quesos.

Fresh (unripened) Cheeses

These are very young cheeses that have not been allowed to age. Typically, they are soft and moist, white or off-white, with a fresh milk flavor. They must be refrigerated until used; have a shorter shelf life than aged cheeses; and carry a freshness date on the package.

Many fresh quesos hold their shape during cooking, so they soften but do not melt (which makes them good fillings or toppings). Most also work well as a seasoning because of their salty flavor — a fact to consider when adding salt and seasonings to recipes. Popular fresh cheeses include:

Queso Fresco

Queso Fresco — The most popular Hispanic-style cheese. Soft and moist with a mild saltiness and slight acidit• similar to farmers cheese. It crumbles easily and does not melt. Often used as a topping or filling in cooked dishes. Queso fresco maybe called adobera when sold in large pieces.

Queso Blanco Fresco — Also called queso para freir (cheese for frying). This is a firm, moist cheese used in cooked dishes. It is often fried because it holds its shape under heat. It is also crumbled onto fruit, beans, salads and other dishes.

Panela — Mild and moist with a sweet, fresh milk flavor. Firm texture similar to fresh (or high-moisture) mozzarella. Does not melt, so it is often used in cooked foods. It is also used in sandwiches, salads and with fruit.

Queso Blanco — A white, mild, creamy cheese similar to a mild cheddar or Jack, and used in much the same way. It also melts like those cheeses.

Oaxaca — A mild, firm white cheese with a sweet milk flavor and slight saltiness. Appearance is similar to mozzarella. It looks like a braided or rolled ball. Similar to string cheese; use as you would a low-moisture mozzarella. This cheese melts well and is often shredded into main dishes prior to cooking.

Requeson — Similar to ricotta; made from whey. Soft, grainy texture and fresh milk taste. Used in salads, spreads, and fillings in cooked foods and desserts.

Aged Cheeses

These include semi-firm and firm quesos. A few will soften but not melt when heated or used in cooked dishes. Others are excellent melting cheeses noted for their rich, creamy taste and texture. Aged cheeses can be stored in the refrigerator much longer than fresh ones.

There is a style of Hispanic cheese commonly called "añejo" (or "aged"). The cheeses in this category are different from their European and American counterparts. While the cheeses in this category are aged to some degree, their characteristic dry texture and pungent, sharp flavor come from being salted, pressed and dried rather than being "aged" for a long time.

Following are some popular aged cheeses:

Asadero — A mild, firm cheese molded into a log and sold sliced, it is similar to provolone in its slightly tangy taste and firm texture. It melts well and is used in such dishes as quesadillas and nachos as well as on hamburgers and sandwiches.

Cotija — This firm, very salty cheese is similar to a dry feta. Moisture content will vary by manufacturer, ranging from semi-firm to very firm, although all versions are quite crumbly. It can be used in cooked foods, especially crumbled and sprinkled like a condiment over soups, salads and beans.

Cotija Añejo — A version of Cotija that has been aged longer. Some manufacturers call it queso añejo, or simply, añejo. As the name implies, it is and dry, and is a mainstay of Mexican cooking, often crumbled over dishes. It has a salty flavor and can be grated or crumbled and used like parmesan or dry Jack on salads and cooked foods.

Enchilado — Also called enchilado añejo, this dry, crumbly white cheese is similar to Cotija añejo but distinguished by its reddish appearance, the result of a mild red chile or paprika coating which adds a slightly spicy flavor. Crumble or slice onto Mexican foods, soups and salads. In cooked dishes, it softens but does not melt.

Menonita — A mild, smooth white cheese that originated in the Mennonite community in Chihuahua, Mexico. Menonita is similar in flavor and uses to gouda. It is a good table cheese and can also be used just like gouda in recipes.

Manchego — Derived from the famous cheese of La Mancha, Spain, where it is traditionally made from sheep's milk, the California version is made from part-skim cow's milk. This firm, golden cheese has a mellow flavor similar to a slightly aged Jack, but more nutty. It is used as a snacking and sandwich cheese, and as an accompaniment to fruit and wine. It also melts well in cooking.

Note: The names above are the quesos' most common names. However, it is not uncommon for a Hispanic-style cheese to be called by more than one name. Also, some cheesemakers may sell a cheese under a proprietary name that differs from those that are commonly used.

More: Choice Cheeses; Oaxaca's Temple Restaurant; Source Guide

Recipe Reference: Artichoke and Spinach Quesadillas; Lasaña Tortilla; Ensalada de Jitomates; Crema Frijolito

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